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HALLIE CAMPBELL ON SAFARI IN KENYA’S BIG CAT COUNTRY
I didn’t see the cheetah coming. She flashed out of the underbrush
and leapt soundlessly onto the bonnet of our Land Rover before I
could make a move. Staring at us with aristocratic hauteur as we
cowered, her luminous amber eyes set in a sleek, elegant face, she
was utterly wild and beautiful. My fear vanished into a sort of awestruck
admiration. The entire trip was worth just this one remarkable
encounter.
But that’s why we go on safari. To meet these amazing, rare and elusive
animals, whose power and grace haunts our imagination. To be with the wild
things in their land, on their terms, is what safari travel is all about. The thrill
of seeing a lion cub playing with its mother, of watching a leopard drag its prey
high up into a tree, of hearing a distant roar as you sit by a camp fire – these
experiences are the essence of safari.
The adventure began as soon as I landed amidst the chaotic, sweaty and
crowded throng of Nairobi airport. It was odd to realise I was a minority, a pale
face among the crowd. Happily, this made me easy to spot and I was soon welcomed
by a booming voice calling “Jambo!”, the cheery Swahili greeting that
resonates throughout Kenya. I was now in the capable hands of The Intrepid
Safari Company and its rather dashing founder, David Stogdale. An old Kenya
hand who radiates energy and optimism, he has more than thirty years invested
in the land and its people. David works closely with the local tribes and
offers them leadership roles in the company, providing much-needed local
employment. While some safari companies pocket the profits, Intrepid takes
pride in ploughing the proceeds back into the community. The company supports
local villages, builds and sponsors schools, and provides vital training
for naturalists, guides and hotel staff. David is a passionate environmentalist.
As a result, the Intrepid Safari Company camps have become a role model for
sustainable tourism in East Africa.
We took off from Nairobi in a SafariLink plane, which was great fun and
a perfect way to see the spectacular Kenyan landscape unfold. We headed for
Samburu National Reserve, fifty minutes by air. Bouncing gently over the
clouds and into golden sunlight flooding the emerald green coffee plantations
of the Kenyan highlands, I thought of brave Karen Blixen (the author Isak
Dinesen), who wrote Out Of Africa, and her love affair with legendary white
hunter Denys Finch-Hatton, of eccentric Lord Delamere, and the naughty
antics of the Happy Valley set. Kenya’s history is as colourful as its wildlife.
As we descended, dots became herds of animals, creating undulating patterns
on the dusty landscape.
Our plane was met by smiling, khaki-clad guides and a group of Samburu
‘morans’, (young male warriors) wearing their bright red, traditional dress. The
Samburu are gentler cousins of the famed Maasai tribe. They are herdsmen
who live pastoral, nomadic lives, virtually unchanged for centuries.
Handsome, humorous and great storytellers, the Samburu people live in enviable
harmony with their surroundings. By western definitions of wealth, the Samburu are poor. They live in mud huts, their sandals are made from old
tyres; and they eke out a bare living from harsh land. Yet when you see their
lovingly tended herds, laughing children and close-knit tribal communities,
you feel that all the hi-tech gadgets and luxuries back home reveal a different
sort of poverty – that of the spirit.
The Samburu Intrepids camp is in an idyllic location. It rambles for a few
acres along the tree-lined bank of the Usao Nyiro River, a favourite watering
hole for the reserve’s famous elephant herds. My thatch-covered tent had a
lovely view of the water, and was everything I wanted. The four poster bed,
draped in billowing mosquito netting, was big and comfy; there was a desk for
writing, and plenty of room to move about. After a quick dip in the pretty
swimming pool it was time for my first game drive.
Our guide, Tom Lmakiya Lesarge, helps run the Intrepids Safari camps,
and knows everything from the Latin names of the birds on the balcony to
where you’re most likely to find a leopard. The Samburu National Reserve is
in arid, rocky scrubland punctuated by thorny umbrella acacia trees and a
sprinkling of springs. It is home to such a vast variety of bird and animal life
that every game drive reveals something new.
Near the river we spot a family of elephants, a dignified matriarch leading
the way with that stately stride all elephants possess, followed by three
pint-sized calves playfully tagging along and flapping their floppy ears at our
approach. Along the dirt tracks sprightly ‘Dik-Diks’, (tiny antelope) leap past,
while clutches of comical helmet guinea fowl run about dodging predators.
Rare Grevy’s zebra add a splash of pop art to the landscape as they trot into
view. It’s a great pleasure to watch the interaction of all these animals – so
different from a zoo, where each species resides in its own caged area.
Back at camp and feeling ravenous, I was delighted to find exceptionally
delicious food. Chef Okinda is a creative genius and his lime cheesecake
is as good as anything from Maison Blanc. How he conjures up three mouthwatering
meals a day, out in the middle of nowhere, is a culinary miracle.
Sitting out on the dining terrace in the open air, listening to the melodies of
songbirds and screeches from the playful monkeys, sipping an icy Tusker
lager and eating freshly grilled Tilapia from Lake Victoria is my idea of safari
heaven. Guests swap stories of the day’s sightings, and the warm-hearted staff
join in with their own tales. Service may not always be speedy, but it is full of
kindness and a sincere desire to please. There is a real camaraderie here
between the guests and staff that makes the stay special. I’m sad to leave my
cosy tent when it’s time to move on.
The Masai Mara National Reserve is on a much bigger scale than
Samburu. The 2,300 kms reserve is home to one of Nature’s great spectacles,
the annual wildebeest migration. A single wildebeest is fairly unimpressive.
He’s a hairy, grimy-looking hodge-podge of an animal. But when there are a
million all together, they demand your respect. Thundering past at a gallop,
they are like a torrential river in full flow, all raw strength and dynamic energy.
But there’s much more here than wildebeest. People come from all over the
world to experience what is considered the finest safari experience in Africa.
The Mara is unique for its high concentration of animals and its varied ecosystem.
It has more than 500 species of bird and 95 different mammals. All
the big cats are here, with more than 20 prides of lions dominating the scene.
Along the Talek River you’ll find exotic birds in every hue, crocs and hippos,
pythons, water buffaloes and the occasional rhino.
Mara Intrepids camp is laid out along the same lines as its little sister in
Samburu. The buildings are all thatch and wood and blend seamlessly into the
environment. The camp offers three game drives a day, and there is an excellent
programme for younger guests. Unlike many kids’ clubs that amuse their
young guests with Playstations, Intrepid guides take them to the village to
meet local children for games, go on bush walks and game drives with seasoned
naturalists, and learn tribal arts and skills like tracking. (Howls of
laughter as the junior explorers learn to spot the difference between a giraffe
dropping and elephant dung!) Respect for other cultures, the animals and the
environment is a lifelong lesson that the children take home.
Heroically deciding to brave a dawn outing, I awoke groggily to the sound
of my tea arriving outside the tent. The sky was just turning pale pink as I
zipped up the tent to keep the mischievous monkeys out, and headed for the
jeep. We took off in a swirl of dust, in search of adventure. In the Mara, you’ll
find the real Africa – not a theme park.
Peering at the horizon, our guide decided to investigate a tree which
looked slightly strange. As our driver approached, we discovered why. A stunning
female leopard was gracefully reclining along an upper branch as if it
were a luxurious chaise longue. She radiated feline chic and I suddenly
understood why leopard print rarely goes out of fashion. But she was more
than just a pretty face. Leopards are the most successful of the big cat hunters,
stalking their prey with relentless precision until they pounce.
The next day our guide, the expert naturalist and consultant for the BBC
series, Paul Kirui, offered to try and find the Ridge Pride of lions made famous
by the BBC’s Big Cat Diary series. More than 75% of the filming for the series
took place around the Mara Intrepid camp. The challenge involved a few
hours of exciting searches along river-banks, by rock outcroppings, and in
shady thickets. At last we cleared a small hill to discover a group of Ridge
Pride lionesses and their cubs relaxing in the shade of a giant Ficus tree. The
tenderness and patience of the mothers, as they endured endless attentiongetting
antics from their cubs, was a delight to observe.
We headed back to camp as the brilliance of a bush sunset unfolded
across the sky. Waiting for us was a roaring fire and a glass of wine. In the
evening, a majestic group of Maasai warriors lead us in a lion dance under the
stars. Their whoops enlivened the darkness as they have for ages past. Going
to Africa on safari brings you back in touch with something eternal and profound.
The earth speaks, and for once we really listen.
Hallie Campbell is a freelance lifestyle, travel and property writer and is
a regular contributor to Harpers & Queen, Tatler Travel Guide, House &
Garden and Condé Nast Traveller.
Further Information
Hallie Campbell flew with Kenya Air (www.kenya-airways.com) and SafariLink
(www.safarilink.co.ke). To arrange a similar safari, Kuoni has a ‘Wings Over
Africa’ 7-night package which costs from £1,390 per person from 18 April –
31 May 2006. For details, call 01306 747008 or visit www.kuoni.co.uk
The Intrepid Safari Company is part of Heritage Hotels. For details on their
safaris and resorts, visit www.heritage-eastafrica.com
For information on Kenya, visit www.magicalkenya.com
The next series of the BBC’s Big Cat Diary begins on 3 April 2006. |
